All of Spain Celebrates Three Kings' Day

Trumpets sound in the distance. People’s lively conversation comes to a halt. Children smile and elbow each other.

“They’re coming,” is the buzz.

Adults lift children on their shoulders.

The trumpets sound louder. Soon I see the trumpeters and the swaying of flags — purple, blue, silver — hanging from T-shaped poles. Flag bearers strive to steer their horses as they hold on tight to the flagpoles.

The trumpets are now booming — or is that noise the pounding of our hearts?

It’s early evening on January 5, and the streets are packed. People stand on the sidewalks, watching the Cabalgata de Reyes Magos, or Three Kings’ Cavalcade.

The Cabalgata de Reyes Magos has been celebrated in Spain since 1866. It commemorates the Magi’s visit to Baby Jesus on the first Christmas after they had followed a star that guided them. With some variations, every city and town, big or small, celebrates this event. 

January 6, or Epiphany Day, marks the twelfth and last day of Christmas and is a national holiday. On that morning, children wake up to their Three Kings’ presents. But tonight is all about the parade!

After the flag bearers come the shepherds — maybe a hundred children and some adults—all wearing sheepskin vests over their clothing and guiding herds of real goats and sheep. The youngest children carry baskets with flowers. Older ones spread petals that cover the streets, forming a fragrant carpet that struggles to conceal the scent of the animals.

I hear the clacking of castañuelas, or castanets, so the dancers must be near. Hundreds of them dance their way down the street. They’re assembled in cuartetos, or foursomes, and are dressed as Spanish farmers used to dress on Sundays many years ago. The men wear white shirts, knee-length black pants, and long white crocheted socks. The women wear long embroidered skirts and pañoletas, or shawls, over their shoulders. They all wear alpargatas, straw-soled sandals laced up to their knees. Trumpets and tambourines start playing, and all at once the dancers engage in a set of swirls and steps as they play their castanets. I feel like dancing, too! 

As the fading sound of the castanets is carried down the street by the last dancers, I hear the mellow sound of flutes playing in the distance. The buzzing of the crowd gets louder. We all recognize the melody. Have the Three Kings arrived?

A lonely rider, Jacob, their messenger, makes the announcement. After much traveling from their homeland in the Middle East, Kings Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltasar have arrived in our city.

One by one they appear, riding majestically on their camels and decked in colorful velvet robes and sparkling gold and silver.

First comes Melchor, with his golden hair and beard. He waves and blows kisses. People cheer and clap.

Then comes Gaspar, whose long wavy hair and beard remind me of snow-covered mountains.

Dark-skinned Baltasar comes last, but he gets the loudest cheers — he’s the one thought to bring the most toys.

Children wave and blow kisses back. Some are lifted in the air to receive hugs from the kings. They’re the lucky ones.

But tonight all the children will be lucky, because when the night is quiet and they’re asleep, Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltasar will come into their houses and deliver presents — just as the ancient kings brought presents to Baby Jesus on the first Christmas.

Most children go to bed too excited to fall asleep, but they know they must. If they’ve been good during the year, the Three Kings will bring them presents.

Later in the day, relatives will gather for the last dinner of the Christmas season, the celebration of Epiphany, or Three Kings’ Day. After dinner, sisters and brothers and cousins will play with their toys one last time. It’s back to school the next morning. 

Donkeys Play a Role, Too

Alcoy was the first Spanish city to celebrate the Cabalgata de Reyes. Some traditions established then are still around today. One of them is Els Burretes, or Donkeys’ Day. On January 4, donkeys decorated with ribbons carry large baskets through the city streets. Children place their Cartas de Reyes, letters with wish lists for the Three Kings, in the baskets. The donkeys will then bring the letters to Kings Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltasar.

Three Kings’ Dinner

Three Kings’ dinner is similar to Christmas dinner except for dessert. Roscón, a special ring-shaped pastry, is prepared on this day. Decorated with pieces of candied fruit, it is baked with all kinds of fillings. A small surprise, usually a ceramic or porcelain figurine depicting Baby Jesus, is hidden inside. The person who receives the lucky piece will have good luck in the New Year.